Troubleshooting Guide ForSunMaster, Alpha Sun and Virtual Sun Tanning Beds
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Your new tanning bed is backed by the most comprensive warranty in the industry but even the best tanning bed needs maintenance or a spare part once in a blue moon. This guide covers many of the most common issues with just about any tanning bed and should help the home tanning bed owner deal with most problems without having to call for service. These answers deal with home tanning beds in general, but morespecifically to the models above.
Bed will not turn on at all.
Timer will not count down.
Lamps try but fail to start, or start slowly
Ends of lamps are black.
One or more lamps do not work.
Two or three lamps in a row quit working.
Half the tanning bed (bench or canopy) will not work.
The top of the tanning bed won't stay up (or down)
My tanning bed is hotter than it used to be.
I am not getting very tan
Acrylics are cracked or hazy
My tanning bed is tripping my breaker
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Bed will not turn on at all.
New tanning beds: Make sure it is plugged in. Believe it or not, that isthe cause in most cases. Make sure the breaker is in the ON position. Makesure you are turning the timer enough to start the system. If the tanning bed alsohas a power switch, make sure it is in the ON position, and try both positions just to besure. Make sure all the connections from the bench to the canopy (and to the aircooling bar if so equipped) are connected tightly.
Some tanning beds will not operate unless all the panels are in place and the bed is inthe CLOSED position, so read your owners manual and see if you have these safety devices. Make sure the bed is fully assembled and in the closed position and try again.
If the tanning bed is 120V powered, try moving a lamp or similar plug in device to theoutlet and plug it in to test it. If it doesn't work, then the problem isn't thetanning bed. If you are familiar with a volt meter and have one handy, make surethere is power getting to the socket.
Timer will not count down.
If your tanning bed has an analog timer (twist knob style) make sure you turn itpassed 5 minutes, then roll it back to the proper time if under 5 minutes. Make surethe knob is not pressed so hard into the tanning bed that it is jammed against the body ofit.
If your tanning bed has a digital timer, make sure you have selected the proper minutesession and pressed the START button.
Lamps try but fail to start, or start slowly
Usually, this is due to low voltage. If you have a 230VAC tanningbed, make sure that the available voltage is at least 215VAC (preferabley 220 to 230VAC)with no load. If you have 208 to 211VAC power (usually ONLY in a business building)then you will need a buck/boost transformer to boost the voltage to a proper level.
If you have a 120VAC tanning bed, the voltage should be at least 110VAC (preferably115-125VAC). If your incoming voltage is correct, the likely problem is insufficientwiring, ie: the gauge of the wire to the circuit is too small. Often, a tanning bedneeding 20AMP service, but run on 14ga wire will show 120VAC with no load, but drop to95VAC when the tanning bed is on. (This can be tested with a volt meter) This is adangerous situation and should be corrected by a licensed electrician.
Ends of lamps are black.
This is normal and will not affect the tanning of the lamp appreciably if thelamps are not older than 2/3rds of their rated life. Some installations seem to turnlamp ends dark after a few weeks, others do not, but the UV output of the lamps should befine.
One or more lamps do not work.
If the tanning bed is new, this usually means a lamp has vibrated loose in theshipping process. Turn off all power to the tanning bed, remove the acrylic andreseat the lamp. While you are inside the tanning bed, make sure all the othertanning lamps are seated properly as well (to prevent having to go back inside in a fewminutes). Once in a great while, the shipping process will actually cause a wire tocome loose at the ends of the lamp. If all the lamps are seated properly but a lampdoesn't work, FIRST swap the bad lamp out with a good lamp and see if the problem is thelamp itself. If the 'bad' lamp works in another socket, then the lamp isfine. NEXT try swapping out the Lamp Starters (230VAC beds only) to see if that isthe problem. The lamp starter is the small cylinder located on one end of the lampon tanning beds that use European electronics. Just twist 90 degrees to remove, andswap with a known good starter from the tanning bed to see if that fixes the problem.
If this doesn't fix the problem then you will need to check the wires coming into theends of the lamps (after turning off power...). This can usually be done by anyonemechanically inclined and you can always call 1-800-274-1744 for detailed instructions onhow to perform this task.
If the tanning bed is not new, try the methods above to determine (or rule out) theproblem being seating, lamp, starter or wire. If the tanning bed uses 230VACEuropean ballasts (choke) there is the remote possibility that a ballast has gone bad.
Two or three lamps in a row quit working.
If the tanning bed is new, it could be caused by lamp end vibration from shipping(see above) or a wire from the ballast came loose. Use the methods above todetermine if it is a loose or defective lamps first.
If your tanning bed is 230VAC European choke ballast equipped, it could be the returnwire on the end of the lamp that does NOT have the lamp starter. Often, 3 lamp endsare chained together for the return voltage, so if a wire is not connecting, it willprevent 1, 2 or 3 lamps from working, depending on where the break is. Often, youjust need to restab the wire, or restrip and restab the wire to fix the problem.
If your tanning bed is 120VAC then you either have a wire loose from one of theballasts (usually the 'yellow' wire that goes to the lamp ends) or a badballast. Use the methods above to help determine the problem.
Half the tanning bed (bench or canopy) willnot work.
The majority of the time this occurs it is because the cable that connectsthe bench to the canopy is not plugged in properly, or the receptical end (that you plugthe bed half into) is defective. On 230VAC beds, it could be due to a defectivecontactor (relay) or timer, if it uses a dual pole timer (MS-65). Once in a bluemoon, it will be because of a bad wire connection in one of the bed halves at the bedcord.
The top of the tanning bed won't stay up (ordown)
This is a hydraulic cylinder problem, obviously, but before you assume a cylinderis bad, insure you have it installed properly. The body portion of the cylinder (thefat part) could be up and the skinny part down when installing them. Insure you havethem installed properly before replacing. Most cylinders are designed to be eitheropen or closed, but not to 'stick' in any position inbetween.
My tanning bed is hotter than it used to be.
Check to make sure you are getting proper ventilation to the tanning bed itself,and that the vent holes and fan intake holes are not blocked by any object or dust. Mosttanning beds need a few inches from any air input or output to ensure proper ventilation. Turn the bed on and visually inspect the individual fans to make sure they arespinning when the bed is energized. Replace any defective system fans immediately toprevent damage to the electronics. If you find build up in the air intakes orexhaust on the tanning bed, it is probably a good idea to buy a Tanning Bed Rebuild Kitand clean the entire inside of the tanning bed.
I am not getting very tan
If your tanning bed is new: Make sure you are following the instructions that camewith your tanning bed regarding exposure times. If you have dry skin or get dry skinfrom using a tanning bed, be sure to use indoor tanning lotion and/or approved moisturizerregularly. Remember: when your skin peels or is dry, that is tan that is coming off.
If you have had your tanning bed for a while, try using a Tanning Bed Rebuild Kit andrecondition your acrylics. Reconditioning often allows 20% to 40% MORE UV topenetrate and be delivered to you. You should use this kit (it has enough productfor several applications) every time you change your lamps and at LEAST one time inbetween lamp changes. For best results, the average home tanning bed should becleaned inside using the kit about once per year.
Acrylics are cracked or hazy
Hazy or fogged acrylics are usually due to the customer using the WRONG cleaneron the tanning bed. Your acrylics are very sensitive to cleaning agents, and assuch, you should ONLY use approved disinfectants that are designed specifically fortanning bed acrylics. Not only will they protect your acrylic, but it is cheaperthan glass cleaners. Glass cleaners and other household chemicals WILL RUIN YOURACRYLICS. If you have been using glass cleaners or similar chemicals on your tanningbed, try using the Novus #2 (found in the Tanning Bed Rebuild kit, along with the properacrylic cleaner) to strip BOTH SIDES of your acrylics. If this doesn't work, youwill need to replace them.
If your acrylics are cracked, they should be replaced. This will prevent anypotential injury. This is especially true with bench acrylics, since you liedirectly on them.
Tanning bed is tripping my breaker
If this is a new tanning bed, more than likely, you are running the tanning bedon too small a circuit and the excessive heat and extra power requirements are causing thebreaker to trip. You need to insure that the circuit the tanning bed is connected tois of the correct voltage and amperage for your tanning bed. It is acceptible to runa tanning bed on a circuit that is LARGER than the rating for the tanning bed, but neverfor a SMALLER circuit. This can lead to overheating, fire and damage to the tanningbed.
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If your tanning bed is NOT new, and this is a recent development, AND there are noother issues with your tanning bed, then the problem is likely the breaker itself. They do wear out, and when they do, one of the most common signs is the breakertripping at a level that is too low for its rated amperage. Have an electician lookat and replace the breaker if you think this is the problem.